Colorado River Adventure

Rafters Hold on for the Ride of Their Lives
by Lucas Velush

Four-and-a-half tons of wet rubber, hulking steel coolers, crates of raw steak, a cache of unopened cans of beer and 20 wildly pumping hearts hit Hermit Rapid's first wave of whitewater with a vengeance.

That first frothy, 50-degree wave injects an ocean-sized shot of adrenaline into a group of people suddenly wondering what it was that made them decide to hand over their lives to the whims of the powerful, unpredictable Colorado River.

With the force of a speeding locomotive, boat and cargo are shoved into Hermit Rapid's second wave. The boat and all its screaming souls dive toward the depths of the Earth, only to again be shot upward. In mind-
numbing succession, Hermit Rapid hurls seven waves-all bigger than almost any other in North America-at 20 puny bodies and the shell of a boat that somehow saves them from being ripped away by the hungry river…

…For many passengers, it's not only a spiritual experience, it's a chance to be reminded how powerful Mother Earth can be. Staring at the mile-deep chasm, the 400-million-year-old rocks and the swift-moving river seems to move people in special ways, says (Western River Expeditions guide) Brent White.

"For a lot of people, this can really change their lives. It can really be a purifying experience, especially for people who've dedicated their lives to a career…"

…The fact that nine people can sit in front, on top of the pontoons that keep the boat afloat, is unusual among riverboats. Unlike most boats, the
J-Rig used by Western River is designed to bring the waves right to the riders. On most boats, passengers are more hidden from the action by pontoons that wrap around the edge of the boats.

"You get the best ride because you're sitting right on top of it instead of down in it," says Bud Miller, a vetern rafter who's taken the Western River trip four times. "On this ride here, you get more of an adrenaline rush."

On each boat, four people get a great view of the river as they sit atop huge coolers that put them at least three feet above those in the action seats. These seats are the bucking-bronco seats because they rock back and forth like the rodeo animals.

The rest of the passengers sit behind the coolers on side seats (or atop the soft duffle in an area called the "chicken's nest"). One guide drives the boat
from the back end while the other roams about, making sure no one falls in…

…Everything on the boat is firmly tied down because anything loose is washed away. Each rafter has an ammo can for the storage of sunscreen, cameras and other equipment to be used during the day. Most belongings are stored away in water-proof bags not to be accessed until the boat stops for the night.

POOLS OF CALM

There are more than 160 rapids in the Grand Canyon, but most of the time boats float through relatively calm waters. Quivering pools of water and small whirlpools cover the surface of the ever-moving river in these spots. Even though calm, the river never stops in its urgent journey toward the sea.

The calm water gives voyagers time to study the more than 10 distinct layers of Grand Canyon carved away by the river and a local geologic phenomenon that has pushed the ground skyward. The river itself is only 40 million years old, but rafters find themselves studying rock that's fully one-third as old as the Earth itself…

…Others use the down time to talk among the folks they came with or to get to know others on the trip. Watching for bighorn sheep, California condors and other wildlife is also a popular way to pass the time.

"It's a joy to see the desert bighorn sheep in their natural environment," says Keith Oswald, an animal-lover from Sedona on the trip with his wife Jan. "Even though intellectually I knew what to expect, to see how nimble they are on those rocks is incredible."

Whether it's time spent staring up at canyon walls or holding on through rapids, riding the Colorado River gives people voracious appetites. The guides serve up three sumptuous meals per day and snacks in between.

Lunch is a buffet affair or sandwiches that takes only an hour or so before the rafts are moving downstream again. At the end of the day a campsite is selected and everyone participates in unloading the boats-everybody gets in a line and passes each item down a fire line toward a central location.

From there, folks scramble to pick a campsite, set up a tent and cot, or just a cot. When they're done setting up camp (or even before), appetizers are served up and dinner follows shortly thereafter. On most nights there is a merry round of partying even after others go to bed, although the merriment rarely lasts past 10 p.m. because everyone is exhausted and the guides need to get people moving early the next morning…