Grand Canyon Rafting

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Running rapids plunges rafters into whitewater adventure.
By Diane Hunt

DESOLATION CANYON - “There are very few activities that offer the excitement and exhilaration you’ll experience riding a boat through the rolling waves and frothing foam of white water-nature in one of its purest, most powerful forms. Unlike ponds and lakes and other captured bodies of water, rivers seem to be restless, to breathe, to be alive. They are going somewhere and they invite you to climb aboard and travel with them.”

From Guide to Floating Whitewater Rivers, by R.W. Miskinnins

It was a slap of cold water in the face, then another and another. This was the third water fight in as many hours.

We were rafting with Western River Expeditions down the Green River in Utah, an improbable swath of
water through the rock hard desert and deep wilderness gorges. The four-day float trip took us through the badlands of Butch Cassidy territory, through Desolation Canyon and Rattlesnake Canyon, where Flat Nose Curry of the Wild Bunch, was killed by a posse in 1899. Petroglyphs etched in the rock were dated some 700 years ago, created by Fremont Culture Indians.

The eroded sandstone and shale cliffs rose on both sides of the river, forming fantastic shapes that made the imagination run wild. Pock marked faces, cathedrales, amphitheaters, spires, windows, dragon spines and giant steps loomed more than a mile over our heads.

All was not desolate. Cottonwood, boxelder, willow and tamarisk grew along the river bottoms. On higher, north-facing slopes were scattered sagebrush, rabbitbrush and struggling ponderosa pines. We had a moving view of the changing wilderness landscape.

Each morning after a hearty breakfast of eggs, pancakes and all the trimmings, we got underway about 9a.m. Appetites build in the outdoors; we stopped for lunch between noon and 1p.m. for creative sandwich
building.

By mid-afternoon we would find our overnight campsite, leaving plenty of time to set up tents, the kitchen and to hike the surrounding hills. The river artery was home to outlaws (Butch and the Kid were most famous), Native Americans, homesteaders and trappers. It is a backward time warp to explore the old
hideouts, the ramshackle cabins and ranch ruins, climbing the well-worn tails leading out of the canyons.

Depending on the size of the beach, the volleyball net was set up and that led to some loudly competitive games. The parents and the other “oldsters” delighted in beating the teenage hot shots. The inflatable kayaks were dragged upstream so river rats who just can’t get enough, could bounce through the rapids-again and again.

Camping under a sky full of stars is always glorious, but the full moon on this August trip was even more spectacular. As the moon first rose, it was as if a cosmic searchlight shone against the red cliffs.

In spring the rivers are highest because of snowmelt, and the wildflowers are blooming. The days are warmer in summer and depending on the snow year, the river can be just as fast. In late summer, the autumn golds contrast with red and brown rocks, while the nightime temperatures can drop 10 to 20 degrees. When you’re ready to raft, there are a number of outfitters offering rafting trips on this river and others. Western River Expeditions has been in business for over 40 years and is the largest river outfitter in the country. You can call for a free brochure at 1-866-904-1160. Once, you’ve booked your trip, the river outfitter will send you a checklist of everything you’ll need to pack.

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